St. Conan’s Kirk

 
 

The Church was begun in 1881 and substantially altered and added to until 1930.  The coming of the Callander and Oban Railway in the late 1870s opened up what had previously been the largely deserted north shore of Loch Awe.  The island of Innis Chonain, close to the shore, was brought by Walter Campbell, who then built a house there for himself, his sister and his mother.    The nearest church was at Dalmally, a long journey for the elderly Mrs Campbell.  Walter Campbell therefore decided to build a church in a more convenient location, and picked a site on the steep north shore of Loch Awe. St Conan's Kirk was born. 


The original St Conan's Kirk was built between 1881 and 1886, and comprised the nave and part of the choir of the later church that visitors see today. Walter Campbell had grander plans, however, and in 1907 he began work on a much more ambitious church.   Walter and his sister Helen, included on the exterior almost every style of church architecture and embellishment, such as flying buttresses, towers, cloisters and stained glass windows.  A particular joy is the three water spouts in the shape of a fierce dog chasing two rabbits.    The new St Conan's Kirk was first used for worship in 1930.  It is magnificent, beautiful, remarkable, and just a little bizarre. Walter Campbell did not design the church to conform to any particular style.   Rather he took ideas and designs from different places and periods and produced something that serves as a collection of the best or most interesting features drawn from many other churches.


The interior is more consistent in a Romanesque style, with a particularly lovely chancel. As an example of the spirit in which St. Conan’s was built, one of those who worked on the building for Helen Campbell recalled her rather eccentric method of getting the results she wanted. The builders would be told to build, say, a small tower. When they had finished Miss Campbell would inspect it carefully and if she was not satisfied, tell them to demolish it and try again!




From the cloister you can pass through to the south aisle of the kirk, and from there to the nave and the chancel. The detail is so exquisite and varied it is difficult to take in easily. Depending on the light, one of the most magnificent views within the kirk is down the chancel to the apse with its tall clear windows, some of which carry through to the roof. Standing alone in the apse is the oak communion table.

The larger spaces within the kirk are balanced by a selection of smaller chapels, including St Conval's Chapel and St Bride's Chapel off the South Aisle. Further west is the Bruce Chapel.  This is notable for a larger than life sized effigy of Robert the Bruce, carved from wood with an alabaster face and hands. With light coming through the windows behind, the face and hands gain a translucence that gives the effigy a very life-like appearance. Below the effigy is a small chamber containing a bone of Robert the Bruce, brought here from Dunfermline Abbey.


There is an interesting article in “Totally Scotland” asking the question: “Scotland's most beautiful building?”  It is well worth a read for its perspective....